I'll do my best not to make this a completely random outpour of my thoughts...
It's been a few days since I got stranded in Garberville, California and camped out with four individuals I originally described as dirty hippies. They were hippies, and they were dirty (physically, they had dirt all over them), and I'll admit I didn't understand why they were living their lives the way they were when I first met them. Now that I've run into more of their kind (and had time to process my interactions with them), I think I have a little more insight into their vagabond lifestyles.
In Garberville I encountered DOZENS of backpacker types (you can look up in High Times why this place attracted those types- I had no idea of the town's significance until I was dropped off there). They didn't impress me in the slightest. They smoked pot on the side of the road, they looked dirty, and once I got to talking to them I got the sense that they didn't care about anything. When I arrived in town one long-haired and dirty individual was trying to hitch right where I was suppose to be (sorry to keep using "dirty" over and over again but that's what I saw over and over again). He had no sign and looked stoned as fuck.
"It's easier with a sign man!" I said to him smiling. "Yep," he said and smiled back. I told him I'd go and have dinner now so he could have some space to hitch. I ate in a location close to the entrance ramp, and the sun started to set. By the time I finished my sandwich I could see the hitcher, as well as dozens more like him moving in waves in my direction. Some had clumped together into groups and some were walking individually. Many of them had dogs. I stood up and got my pepper spray ready, more for the dogs than the waves of potheads. I waved and said hello to a few of them. A few waved back and one said he liked my hat.
They were all moving into the forest to camp for the night, away from town. This gave me the opportunity to hitch without these freaks around, I thought.
I waited for two hours before joining these "freaks" (they're not, by the way) in camping in the forest for the night. Here's what happened in those two hours:
Lots of cars passed, none stopped. That was probably obvious. Lots of cops drove by, but none cared about me on the side of the road.
A bus, decked out with paint, bike racks, and I-don't-know-what-elses pulled up about 30 feet from me and large groups of backpackers began to congregate. I figured I should at least see where the bus was going.
I approached someone waiting to board the bus.
"Excuse me, sir... Where is this bus going?"
"What?"
"Where is this bus going?"
"uhhhh, I don't know."
Fucking brilliant...
"Thanks."
I talked to the driver, a hippie chick (with a dog) who told me the bus was going to a town in the wrong direction just 3 miles up the road. She was very nice and helpful, and, unlike her passengers, able to communicate using words.
I went back to my spot on the entrance ramp of the highway and the bus left.
Another hippie walked by, and I asked him why there were so many backpacker types around here.
Stoned, he said, "don't you know where you are man?" Then he reached into his bag and tried to give me a handful of weed. I told him I didn't want to be hitching with that.
He told me I could find his camp a few miles down the road if I needed a place to crash.
Around 10 pm I started thinking about calling it quits, when another wave started to approach.
"HAHAHA, look at this guy, where does HE think he's going to get a ride at this time?"
My sign said fucking Eureka... The way they all moved together I thought they knew each other.
"Eureka," I replied.
"HAHA, good luck with that man, ain't nobody stopping this late."
The man had a point...
I looked at a rather pretty (but still dirty) girl in the group and asked where they were headed.
"Uh, we're just going to toke up then go to sleep."
"Do you mind if I tag along?"
"I don't care."
"Awesome," and there I was, part of the wave.
"Nice hat, man," one of the hippies said to me...
I stayed close to the girl- Amber- as she was by far the least sketchy-looking of the group. The large wave broke up into smaller chunks and soon I found myself in a group of five (myself included) trekking into the moon-lit forest. I was with Amber, the loud-mouth, and two other guys (Austin and I-honestly-don't-remember).
We found a spot, and as soon as we stopped moving they packed a bowl. I talked with them while they smoked, keeping my guard up the whole time. The loud mouth talked all the time, (or tried to) telling us how he was mentally unstable and sharing his life story. He had a hard life, but it didn't take a genius to know that 99% of what was coming out of his mouth was complete BS. I believed he was insane though.
"Normal" group dynamics didn't work in this crowd. Loud-mouth (I don't remember his name) would interrupt always. Amber and I did do some talking over this, but it was hard to talk with this yahoo next to us. The other guys barely said two words, stoned out of their minds. Not-Austin claimed to have been in jail for 5 years for possession of marijuana in Idaho.
"That's rough," the group replied.
Amber was neither mentally insane nor blitzed out of her mind. I wanted to find out what the fuck she was doing here in the forest with these people but I never got the opportunity. She was beautiful and, unlike the crowd I was with, competent.
I didn't learn much about her except that she had been living on the road for two years. She was a run-away and "just can't do the whole 9 to 5 thing." Unlike her "peers" she was interested in my trip, especially the two nights I spent in Mexico. I wished the guy next to me would shut the fuck up.
The two quiet guys slept near each other, and the crazy one set up his hammock. Amber slept in her sleeping bag away from the crazy guy and I slept near her. No naughty-business ensued. I don't know how to explain but it just wasn't like that.
At the break of dawn Amber and I left without saying goodbye to anyone else. We chatted a little on the hike back to the highway, then parted ways at the entrance ramp. She was going to stick around town, not doing anything in particular...
I posted a sign that read "CLEAN" and made it out in 10 minutes, happy to turn my back on that town.
I poked fun of the hippies a lot with my drivers, but that whole experience stayed on my mind for several days. I encountered several other Beat Generation types; those who make a lifestyle of living on the road, sometimes for decades.
While it was easy for me to make fun of them I feel like I understand them better now.
"The road broke me," said one of my drivers while lighting up a fat doobie. "Just not having a home, getting stuck in places... I was on the road for six years, man... It fucking sucked."
"Why'd you do it for that long?" I asked.
"It wasn't really my choice. I just had to."
I can't imagine the circumstances that drive people to run away and live on the road for years at a time, nor do I want to. Sean, a kind Canadian who had run away at age 12 had some incredible insight:
"...when all you know are strangers you don't have any real friends...at a certain point you eventually become a stranger to yourself..."
This explains the not-caring attitude I saw in almost all of them. Tell a freight hopper that you think what they do is exciting an they'll act like it's no big deal.
Travel and adventure are two things I respect and admire about the Beat Generation. They probably have more perspective on what humanity has to offer than most people who never escape their comfort zones, but without a strong sense of self I think they're cursed to not care and cary on almost hopelessly. Ironically, I think a healthy dose of hitching, freight-hopping, and a shot of the unknown can teach you loads about yourself, giving one an even greater sense of self.
Goddammit, what am I even saying... I'm generalizing out the wazoo and that's not fair to a lot of them. I saw old men hitchhiking in pairs having a happy conversation on the side of the highway, and I've spoken to many who have come back into society from years of hitching with bold new perspectives, excited about their travels. For the most part, however, the kids I see hitching as a lifestyle don't look happy and I sense that they're only getting themselves more and more lost.
...
Wow, that was a long one... Did I mention that I got made fun of for wearing blue jeans instead of rags?
I also rode a hippy bus, met the most intelligent man on this trip so far (an Oregon rancher!) made it up to I-90, the mother road, and cleansed my soul with the spiritual properties of sage :)
Or at least cleansed my bad smell with the aroma of burning leaves, I'm not so much into that soul-cleansing shit.
As always there's way more to say, but I'm not even sure how much sense this made so I'll leave it here. Don't get the wrong idea by the tone of this post, I've been having a fantastic time and really learning lots about people and myself (more in the last two months than in the last two years of college I'd say).
Montana tomorrow. From Spokane, Washington I'm signing out!
Here's a wheelchair in the middle of a river. What I want to know is where's the little old lady?